Umoboshi!

Posted by Amanda on 05 Sep 2008 | Tagged as: Vegan, Vegetables, Vegetarian

I have been trying to work japanese style home cooking into my repertoire. And we have three cabbages from our CSA aging in our fridge. Madhur Jaffrey delivers: 1/2 of a medium cabbage, sliced thin.  1/2 tsp salt, cooked in some oil 3-4 minutes just until the cabbage is starting to wilt.  Add in 4-8 umoboshi plums and 1/2 tsp sugar that you pounded or mashed into a paste. We had it with an egg (scrambled, with scotch bonnet since we’re still working through those) and rice. Easy.

Might give me gas (cabbage seems to do that) but I did just move through a serious amount of brassica.

My next challenge: a monster eggplant. I haven’t decided what to do with it.

“Garden Rabbits” otherwise known as ZUCCHINI!

Posted by Emily on 29 Aug 2008 | Tagged as: Bread, Musings, Vegetables, dessert


Like so many midwesterners in late August, I find myself completly overrun with monster zucchini and summer squash. I have included a recipe in this post that I made up to use up the bunnies in unique and yummy ways: Chocholate Zucchini Bread. But first, as an homage to my father, Jim Heynen, I want to share with you his short story about zucchini.

Garden Rabbits, by Jim Heynen
There were the fuzzy sharp-toothed ones that nipped tender shoots of lettuce and cabbage before they could dream of the salad bowl, the kind that multiplied as quickly as aphids and were as hard to discourage from their nibbling ways. But there was another kind of garden rabbit. These too were fruitful and multiplied in great abundance, though they did not hop. They were zucchini.
The boys did not like to eat zucchini very much. The taste was as dull as potatoes without salt or butter or sour cream, and the texture was slimy as cooked okra. But in August when the lettuce had bolted and the cabbage had died, when even most of the tomatoes had ripened and the wine-colored beets bulged from the earth ready for harvest, the zucchini caught a second breath: the yellow blossoms quickly turned into small green fingers that within a week were the size of cucumbers and in two weeks the size of small watermelons. Why couldn’t the animal garden rabbits eat these vegetable garden rabbits instead of the carrots and lettuce?
If the boys didn’t do something, they knew it would mean zucchini in eggs for breakfast, fried zucchini and onions for dinner, boiled zucchini for supper. Zucchini casseroles! Zucchini salads! Zucchini pie if there was a recipe for one hiding somewhere!
The oldest boy had a plan. Over supper, as they all swallowed the soggy chunks of zucchini, he said, We have so many zucchini, we should give some to the poor people who don’t have anything to eat.
The oldest boy had never in his life suggested giving anything to anybody, not even to his friends. And now he was thinking of poor people he didn’t even know?
The grown-ups thought it was a wonderful idea and even brought it up in their family devotions: That the abundance of the earth should be given to all, they prayed. Yea, even to the neediest of our number.
On Saturday night the boys loaded the car trunk with big zucchini before they went into town. The boys agreed that they would spend the evening giving the zucchini to poor people they met.
Look at them, said one of the grown-ups, as the boys loaded their arms with zucchini and started down the streets looking for poor people. Aren’t they wonderful?
The boys couldn’t really tell a poor person from a rich person, so they started offering zucchini to everyone they met. They figured the rich people wouldn’t take them and the poor people would. But it seemed that poor people were few and far between when it came to feeding them zucchini.
When the boys got to the big parking lot next to a WalMart that had just replaced most of the stores downtown, the oldest boy said, Let’s just put some in the back seat of everybody’s car. We might not be getting them to poor people, but at least we’re still giving them away.
This is what they did and within a half hour they were rid of all the zucchini. The grown-ups thoughts the boys’ charity had been so successful that they let the boys load up the trunk of the car with zucchini the next Saturday night too.
The boys went straight to the WalMart parking lot. But word had gotten out that if you didn’t lock your car doors somebody would fill the back seat of your car with giant zucchini.
Oh no, said the oldest boy, after they had tried all the car doors in the parking lot. We’re stuck with them. We’ll be eating zucchini until Christmas!
Then one of the boys pretended to drop one on the street as he crossed on the way back toward their car. The other boys followed suit, dropping zucchini, one after another. Whoops, whoops, whoops, as the zucchini dropped to the street.
The boys stood on the sidewalk and watched the cars pass by, some of them slowing down and swerving to miss the shattered vegetables. But in a few minutes the zucchini had been mushed up and the cars didn’t even slow doen. And that was how the last of the green garden rabbits died. Smeared out on the street like so much road kill.

Chocolate-Zucchini Bread
-1 1/2 cups brown sugar
-3/4 cup sunflower or safflower oil
-3 eggs beaten
-1 1/2 tbsp melted butter
-1 tsp vanilla
-2 cups grated zucchini
-1 1/2 cups white flour
-1 cup whole wheat flour
-2 tsp baking soda
-1 tsp baking powder
-1 tsp salt
-2-3 tbsp good quality cocoa powder
-1 tsp cinnamon
-1 tsp ground cloves

Preheat the oven to 350F
1. In a large bowl combine the sugar, oil, eggs, butter and vanilla and beat well with a whisk. Mix in the grated zucchini. 2. In a separate bowl, combine all the remaining dry ingredients and mix well. Gently stir the dry mixture into the wet. Pour the batter into a well-oiled loaf pan and bake for approximately 1 hour, until firm and a toothpick comes out of the center clean. Cool for 15 minutes before removing from the pan.

What to do with Scotch Bonnets?

Posted by Amanda on 26 Aug 2008 | Tagged as: Canning, Pickles & Relishes & Chutneys, Vegetables

My parents brought a dozen meyer lemons from their tree in San Francisco. Used some in salad dressing, been putting them in water glasses. I’m not used to having lemons around.  Do you keep lemons always? For what? Can I freeze the zest of the last three? Can I just freeze lemon slices? I know their days are numbered.

And, also, we have five scotch bonnets and there is no way I can eat them on my own and N. is leaving me for almost a week. What to do? Make some kind of salsa? Pickle them? Dry them?

PS, from the eat your vegetables department, mystery greens (Mr. Prince, the gardener up the street, calls it spinach, but it isn’t. More kale-y) cooked up with mint, leftover brown rice, a dash of habanero powder that Paul gave us for some reason. (You know I’m the last one to say that a gift has to be new, but there must be a story behind half a jar of powdered spice with the label faded and wearing off.) It was most excellent. Mmm, and some Parmesan.  I am going to have to start working on my protein intake, I think. I tend to just assume that they’re right when they say most Americans eat too much protein and I shouldn’t fret.  And, um, ice cream with almonds is a good source of protein, right? That is my other new trick, salted almonds in my ice cream.  I finished Reading Lolita in Tehran which is the subject of one strangely obtuse and contentious wikipedia entry, and which features a narrator who regularly pours cold coffee over toasted walnuts and ice cream and which, somehow for me turned into salted almonds and ice cream. And looking more closely at what I can learn from fiction.

Pickles in the Mailbag

Posted by Amanda on 08 Aug 2008 | Tagged as: Canning, Pickles & Relishes & Chutneys, Vegetables

Caroline wants pickling advice and I’m afraid to tell her I don’t know a thing. I mean, I know a lot right? I know everything. But I’m too lazy to do much more than put more vegetables in the turnip pickle juice when the turnips start to run out. Sliced white onions are good for that. So are green tomatoes. Sliced or whole. Then you can put them on sandwiches. Mmmm. Sometimes I put carrots in, which don’t go well on sandwiches and are better fresh anyway. After a few rounds of onions the brine starts to get funky and I dump it.

This week, though, I made a batch of Korean turnip pickles, that came out pretty great in a garlic skunk kind of a way. Hsuan offered a book of simple Japanese pickles (which she still hasn’t delivered. I gave her some pickled turnip today to help her remember …) which got me thinking that Madhur Jaffrey would probably have some useful advice. I had to adapt a little, since I don’t have any dried Korean chilies and I couldn’t find scallions and I wanted to pickle a lot more than three small turnips.

Note: I think preserving things is one of those adventures that can lead to botulism, so, um … you know. Think for yourself here. Look up a recipe. When in doubt, throw it out.

I started with 4 or 5 really really big turnips, which I sliced about a quarter inch thick, sprinkled lightly with salt, and let sit for a few hours in a glass bowl. I gather that glass is important if you don’t want rust and funky reactions going on. I rinsed and rinsed and chopped up two monster cloves of garlic (I’m thinking now that one would have done it) and one small white onion and one nice hot chili. I don’t remember what variety it was, it was from the green market and it was super spicy. Only you know how spicy you like your pickles. I added ~2tsp of salt and a tsp of sugar and stirred it all around and added enough water to cover the whole business in a glass jar. I added three or four impossibly small beets because pink pickles rule and what else are you going to do with three or four impossibly small beets?

Rest a saucer loosely on top. It was supposed to sit for 6-8 days but I put a real lid on it and stuck it in the fridge on day 5, for no good reason. I had them in my lunch today. Like I said, I think one clove of garlic would have done it–I won’t be getting any mosquito bites tonight!

Cherry Crisp

Posted by Emily on 30 Jul 2008 | Tagged as: dessert


I wanted to try a fruit crisp that did not use as much sugar and butter and cornstarch as many recipes I have found call for. This was an experiment, but I think it turned out well. The cherries are naturally sweet on their own and the oil and honey and oats along with some almonds make a nice crispy crust. The hardest part of making this was pitting the pound of cherries, but it was well worth it!
What to do:
-Pit and halve a pound of fresh cherries
-combine in a bowl: 3/4 cup rolled oats, 1 tbsp flour, 2 tbsp honey, 2 tbsp vegetable oil, salt, 1/2 cup chopped almonds, cinnemon, and nutmeg
-place pitted cherries in the bottom of a deep pie dish, spoon the oat mixture over the top and bake for about 40 minutes. Cool and serve with vanilla ice cream.

Yellow Squash and Basil; Beets and Beans

Posted by Amanda on 27 Jul 2008 | Tagged as: Musings

Not actually all that original, chopping up squash and cooking it with chopped up basil but I was goofing around with the food processor and I made a slurry of onions, garlic and basil. And a hot pepper. And then I dumped it on cubed squashes and remembered to add salt and pepper and a decent amount of olive oil before I put it in the oven (350) for half an hour.  I used young squash, small ones, not baseball bat zukes and patty pans the size of frisbees. I think the bigger they get, the more they need to be cooked down.

I tossed (I didn’t toss. I stirred.) it with whole wheat couscous, which, since I always have to look this up since I buy bulk grains all the time, I cook 2c boiling water to 1c couscous. Simmer until the water is absorbed or let it sit for half an hour. Add a little salt and some olive oil at the end.

<h3>Meanwhile</h3>

My friend J-Ro made me dinner the other night. He’s a master of eating his whole CSA share alone, so dinner included a green salad with cucumber, broccoli with garlic and sausage (local, free roaming animals. I’m still kind of half veg, half flexitarian, which I think means “not veg” to some people.) brown rice, and a second vegetable side which he made thusly:

Steam some potatoes and matchsticked beets a little. I think the potatoes were in there because we got two or three young potatoes last week. They were nice but not key to the project. Rinse a can of garbanzos, chop an onion, and start it cooking in some oil. Add the beans and beets and potatoes and a handful of raisins and some chopped mint and a good amount of fennel foliage (because we’ve all got fennel growing and it produces a lot of foliage. Move the whole mess to a bowl and stir in a little cider vinegar.

Tomato Basil Dressing from the Angry Trout

Posted by Emily on 25 Jul 2008 | Tagged as: Recipe, Salad


I was lucky to have time to make it up to Grand Marais on the North Shore of Lake Superior last week while out checking in on some of my summer interns. I had lunch at the Angry Trout, a local restaurant specializing in fresh local fish. I sat outside in the sun, the lake breeze and the view of sailboats exiting the harbor made me sigh deeply and smile, feet up on the chair in front of me. And just when it could not get any better, I was brought a cold local beer, and a fresh green salad with grated carrots and beets, fresh grilled trout, and this amazing tomato basil salad dressing. It was so good that I was done before I thought to take a picture. I asked if they would give me the recipe for the salad dressing and two minutes later my waitress handed me a little slip of paper with the following written on it:
Tomato Basil
-2 cups chopped tomato
-3 Tbs extra virgin olive oil
-3 Tbs. red wine vinegar
-2 Tbs. chopped fresh basil
-pinch o salt-

Not Technically Tabbouleh

Posted by Amanda on 12 Jul 2008 | Tagged as: Salad, Vegetarian

I only recently figured out that a person could, if they wanted, just soak bulgur overnight and never heat it at all. I’m a master of forcing legumes on myself by setting them out to soak in the morning which means I can’t laze out and not cook them into food when I get home. I left our bulgur soaking thusly overnight, with only half a mind to what I was going to do with it, mostly thinking “aw crap. we’ve got a crust and a half of bread which is not going to make lunch for both of us tomorrow.”

In the morning it had soaked up its water and I just put it in tupperware with cucumber, tomato, one hard boiled egg for each of us, sliced, some cubed up jack cheese because it was there and some lettuce. (which, despite my upbringing in a house where there was always washed lettuce in the fridge, except while we were washing it, I only recently started washing right away and storing in a ready to use sort of state).

I think the trick (the trick besides soaking) was to just dress the bulgur. I love pomegranate molasses, Vivian hipped me to it years ago while she was gathering provisions in NYC in preparation for her move to law school someplace in Ohio where she wasn’t sure there’d be an arab grocery. With balsamic and olive oil it makes a lovely dressing, especially for grain-type salads. Sometimes I add sumac, oregano and thyme, sometimes I forget. This time I forgot. So I just dressed the bulgur and then dumped everything else in and put the lettuce at the very top (actually N. arranged the sliced eggs artfully on top, but the idea was to keep the lettuce mostly up off the dressing so that it wouldn’t be all wilted by lunch time).

I do have a question for youse, though. A few, actually. Starting with, are you still eating out of plastic containers? We’ve got a few of these clear rubbermaid containers that comfortably hold about as much grain salad or leftovers as an adult person needs for lunch. They stay closed and don’t leak and generally rock, but they are plastic. I’m just curious about the rest of you. What do you pack your food in?

Zucchini and Mint

Posted by Amanda on 12 Jul 2008 | Tagged as: Vegan, Vegetables, Vegetarian

I’ll probably accidentally write this again before summer is over but nothing goes better than fresh zucchini and fresh mint. Good thing since both are more prolific than anyone really wants them to be. Hot iron skillet, onions, garlic, patience, patience, sliced squash, patience, salt and pepper, patience, lots of chopped mint and just a little more patience.

We had it with romano and tortellini this week, but it goes nicely with tofu and rice, too.

We cooked it to softness but you can leave out some of the patience and have a fresher squash and a fresher mint and call it salad. Maybe with bulgur or kasha and a bit of feta.

Summer Sunday Scramble

Posted by Emily on 12 Jul 2008 | Tagged as: Breakfast, Musings

Scrambled eggs have a publicity problem. They are taken for granted to be boring, hurried, week day morning affairs with two eggs tossed together in the pan with nothing to keep them company. Or, they are the cold slabs of congealed bland eggs we often find in buffet lines as we scan ahead for the baked goods, or (please please!) the fresh crab legs. Today I am on a mission to put the scrambled egg dish back at the center of the weekend brunch. Forget the pancakes…who wants to be standing over a hot stove flipping those little buggars all morning and then feel their heaviness in the heat of the afternoon?

Eggs are the most versatile of all foods, and they go well with almost anything, so you can really use them to highlight seasonal vegetables and herbs and to try out different spice combinations. The trick to really good scrambled eggs is to, first, use the very best fresh local eggs possible. Second, you want to cook them over low heat, patiently moving them around the pan with a spatula as they cook. The rest is all about getting creative with what you put in them. The scramble I made this morning highlighted what is available right now in our garden and locally, so lots of basil, zucchini, tomatoes, chives, spring onions, and garlic scapes. Inspired by Simon Hopkinson, I also added fried bread cubes at the end.

Next »